SMCC > Collections > Textiles > Information Sheet > Fibres and Fabrics

Fibres and fabrics

Fabril Small fibre

Filament Continuous length of fibre e.g. silk, gives fabric its beautiful drape and lustre. Fibres run parallel to each other without any breaks or tangles. Most synthetics are made into continuous filaments to obtain smooth yarns. Most synthetic fibres are thermoplastic; of natural textiles only wool possesses this characteristic.

Natural fibres

Tappa

• One of the oldest non-woven.
• Made from beaten tree bark.

Linen

• Product of the flax plant.
• One of the 5 varieties of the bast family.
• Thought to be older than the cotton or silk of India and China.
• Is known to have been cultivated in Egypt for 5000 years.
• A fibrous material in the stem of the flax plant produces smooth and strong fibres ranging from very coarse to very fine.

Cotton

• The most important of textile raw materials.
• It is the soft fibrous substance covering the seeds of the plant. o Its substance is pure cellulose.
• It was first mentioned in the 15th century.
• Durable with a wide range of uses, particularly in clothing.
• Grown around the world in suitable climates - it is inexpensive. o Today the bulk of the world crop is from the U.S.A.

Wool

• A major industry since early times.
• Comes from fleece of sheep (hair from the llama, camel, goat, and angora rabbit is less common).
• Wool is sheared and boiled, then scoured to remove dirt and washed to remove lanolin.
• Wool is then carded between two wire-covered rollers.
• Spun to make yarn used for knitting and weaving.
• It makes two types of cloth - woollen and worsted.
• Woven woollen cloth - flannel, cashmere, blazer cloth and tweed. Knitted it makes jersey.
• Worsted yarn cloth - better quality cloth - suiting, gabardine and barathea.
• Properties - warm and absorbent but not as strong as nylon, polyester or acrylics.
• Much more expensive to produce than cotton.

Silk

• Made by the caterpillar of the silk moth, which spins a cocoon. This is boiled to soften the gum and release the silk filament.
• Silk is the most lustrous of all fibres.
• The only natural fibre produced as a single filament.
• Spun silk is made from shorter filaments, which are carded and spun. It is much less expensive.
• Traditionally been worn and used by the wealthy. Still chosen for special occasions.
• Sewing silk is difficult as it is a slippery fabric and tends to pucker.

Regenerated fibre

• Called VISCOSE or RAYON - patented in 1894 by Clayton Beadle.
• A yarn from a natural source such as wood pulp chemically treated to create a new fibre.
• The cellulose is made more soluble with chemicals and then passed through a spinneret (like a showerhead forcing out fine icing). The extruded substance is then either passed through liquid to set it or dried in warm air.
• A continuous filament is produced that looks rather like silk.
• Could be described as half natural and half synthetic.

Synthetic fibres

Nylon

• Invented in 1935, Nylon was the first completely synthetic commercial fibre.
• Made from chemicals, which are by products of the petroleum industry, which are readily available.
• Nylon forms a long thin filament, but it can be cut into staple fibre to form a more wool-like fabric.
• The strongest, finest, most elastic and all-purpose chemical fibre for clothing fabrics.
• As a filament it can be blended with other natural or man-made fibres or woven with them.
• Nylon is wind proof and water repellent, therefore ideal for outdoor clothing.
• It is used for a wide variety of goods e.g. tents, groundsheets, ropes, jackets, swimsuits, umbrellas, nightwear and sheets.
• Silk weaves include taffeta, shantung, crepe, plisses, marquisettes and nets.

Polyester

• Thermoplastic fibre.
• Produced in 1950's, formerly called Terylene.
• Produced from substances from the petroleum industry.
• A man made fabric composed largely of dihydric alcohol and terephthalic acid.
• Used for wash and wear apparel when combined with cotton, rayon and other man-made fibres - it launders well and dries quickly requires little ironing. o It is very strong and resists stains.
• Dacron is a trade name for polyester filaments and staple fibres used in all types of apparel.

Fibreglass

• Drawing molten glass makes the filament.
• Often used for fillings because it is dense but light.

Latex

• Viscose liquid with rubber particles suspended in it.
• The resulting material can be moulded into many shapes which, once dried, are permanent.

Kevelar

• A trade name for aramid fibre.
• Used in fabrics, which need to be fire retardant.
• Developed by DuPont.

Acrilan

• A trademark of a liquid derivative of natural gas and air.
• It is used alone in lightweight fabrics such as challis.
• It is combined with other fibres for children's clothes, blouses, skirts, uniforms, work clothes and pillows.

Lurex

• Invented in the 1950s by the Dew Budische Company.
• Made from thin strips of aluminium.
• Blends well with other fabrics for subtle or dramatic shimmering effects.

Neoprene

• Trade name for a synthetic rubber compound.
• Made from polychloroprene, which is vulcanised, with sulphur or metal oxide.
• Used for wetsuits.

Lycra

• Trade name for spandex fibre.
• A synthetic rubber developed by DuPont Delaware, USA, in 1958.
• Originally developed for lingerie.
• It became popular for sportswear and fashion in the 1980s.
• Blends well to make stretch fabrics with excellent elasticity.
• Its stretch recovery allows tailored shapes without seams, darting and complex cutting.

Microfibre

• Extremely fine yarns of one denier or less that are hollow.
• Being so fine and hollow they can be specifically engineered to create a wide range of aesthetics and revolutionary performance characteristics such as tights that release moisturisers, or materials like chitoppoli that are good for eczema sufferers.